|
Crow Creek and boulders in National Forest around Happy Jack. |
|
Sid in his natural ballooning function: ballast preventing an unplanned take-off. |
I promise to never again make fun of experience of seasoned locals. This year
confirms the division of seasons into winter and Frontier Days. Cold and moist
spring turned into cold and moist summer, and by the half of July I wrote to
Vicky in then hot Europe that she should definitely bring along long trousers
and jackets when coming to visit. Locals are morose on account of cold summer,
but I find summer without blistering heat much better.
Independence Day fell this year on Tuesday — which is impractical
in a blue collar country, where shifts on the railroad or ranch don't pay
attention to holidays.
On top of it, just that Tuesday, the weather was supposed to be bad
— which in our parts means storms, hail and/or wind. Private celebrations
thus began in anticipation, that is, already during the weekend. We even got
invited to one — to our kids' friend's grandma. Local grannies generally
fit my generation, just so you don't imagine some feeble geriatric wreck. This
grandma owns a ranch out in the prairie north of the city, with chickens,
horses, and with a ever-changing number of dogs, cats and grandchildren. And
a private shooting range. The
party was very organic
(= dis-organized) and nice. Kids, grand-kids, aunts, cousins and guests
came with their partners, kiddies, aunties and cousins, and there was grilling
and going to shoot some, and teaching dogs to fetch, and making daisy chains
— and there was talk. Unfortunately, I had a noon shift at work, and hence
I arrived relatively late and rather tired. Consequently, Sid and I left before
dusk — and before the high-point — private fireworks.
Still I enjoyed more social life than last three years all added together.
|
I'm taking a picture of Sid in the basket of a flying balloon! |
|
A display of a typical helicopter gunner in Vietnam war. |
On Tuesday, the weather had really got worse, and on Friday July 7, our area
was hit by
hail — mostly pea-sized up the diameter of marbles, but
some clusters reached the size of ping-pong balls. It lasted only about half an
hour — but in that time, I lost most of my gardening attempts. Even potato
plants were stripped down to stems. Strawberries under a wire mesh kind-of
survived, as did my experimental plot of wild flowers. I sowed them in spring
and was surprised how well they thrived in cold and wet weather. Hail smashed
all blossoms — but not the actual plants, and within a week or two the
plot looked just like before the storm.
With anxiety I also spied a robin's nest in a small aspen in the front of our
house — two years earlier, hail killed hatchlings — this year the
female kept sitting there (even birds are late this year, as they started
building the nests in June) — and after the hail I discovered one live
fresh naked hatchling in the nest, which looked like a very ugly space alien.
In the following three weeks, the alien grew feathers and then I saw it sitting
on a branch — and fly away. It would seem that even local fauna is ready
for hail.
|
Carol swims in a warm tributary of Bighorn River. |
|
Lookout Lake from a lookout. |
In mid July, we already traditionally departed for a
ballooning rally in
Riverton. Lisa had work — being a summer-camp counselor and a
coach at the vaulting club stables — including coaching Saturday adult
vaulting class.
The fact that she could not come along, simplified our worries about finding
nice goat caretaker, and thus only three of us went ballooning — myself,
Sid and Tom. We reserved our favorite hotel over the phone (as their corporate
website claimed that no rooms were available) — and we congratulated
ourselves for having solved this problem. Until the moment, when the THREE of
us stood in a room that contained ONE queen bed. Fortunately we were able to
negotiate a swap for a different one with two beds. The rest of our experiences
were all positive. We decided to check out Riverton's newest Thai restaurant,
Thai Chef Two, for dinner, which sported ecstatic reviews. First, we were
not sure, when we sat alone in a tiny room (place has been converted from
a regular, ancient family house) — but in the moment our food came, all
our uncertainty disappeared — this was by far the best Thai we ran into
within several last years. So much that we ate there all three evenings of
this mini-vacation.
|
Sid at Snowy Range. |
|
Pika. |
The weather was merciful and balloons were flying every day. On Saturday even
Sid and I got into the basket — perhaps it was first time we were flying
together. That, too, went well — after twenty three years of marriage,
neither one of us threw the other one overboard. Besides aeronautical
impressions (more in gallery) we enjoyed our "vacation". On Friday we
went to the
National Museum of Military Vehicles in
Dubois. Since
last year we owed it more attention, as we then had managed to only cover 2nd
World War. Korea and Vietnam were our focus this year. I admit that I don't
excite much from technical parameters of various tanks and mechanisms, but this
museum is awesome in presenting the vehicles framed into political and strategic
developments of the conflicts, and my historian's heart fills with joy.
On Saturday we journeyed to
hot springs of
Thermopolis.
Swimming in a river spells summer break for me. Here the swimming is decorated
by beautiful surroundings, where hot water from a cascade of calcareous sinter
flows into Bighorn River. There was so much water this year, one could swim
in the cove under the cascade — but one could not do so in the river
proper — very icy and very swift. It was partially flooding a boat launch
and a parking lot. It had a positive effect in deterring many a tourist;
boats and rafts were conspicuously absent.
|
Aboard a tourist train to bison (photo Holger/Vicky). |
|
Visitors in Box Canyon during a storm. |
Perhaps you won't find it a substantial vacation, but as I already mentioned in
one of the winter journals, we don't really feel so much need to leave for long
trips. A half hour from the town, there is a state park with reservoirs for
kayaking, and with multiple hiking and biking trails in a picturesque landscape
filled with rocks. Ninety minutes out, we have Rocky Mountains (Snowy Range,
Medicine Bow Peak). The part which — unlike the Rocky Mountain National
Park — is not crowded, and were you don't need a permit to enter.
Thus we don't suffer a problem when we feel like taking a half-day off to kayak,
or a whole day off to hike at ten thousand feet above sea level, without much
planning and needing to reserve (and pay) accommodations or to drag along tents
and sleeping bags. We eyeball my shift schedule, weather forecast — and we
either go, or watch from a window at home, how a storm delivers more hail.
And so came the decision that it would be a good idea, before our visitors
arrive, to check out the surroundings of
Medicine Bow Peak. By mid-June,
snow had been everywhere; we hoped that middle of July would be friendlier.
And we also wanted to finally visit our local hot springs in Saratoga, which
you can reach by a freeway route — or by crossing the mountains.
Our expedition discovered that most of the snow in the mountains indeed had
melted away, and that may wildflower started blooming furiously —
including columbines. We spotted a pika that munched on some blossoms —
only, it did not grasp the concept of video — when we tried to record it
in action, it froze and waited until it ends. Weather in the mountains was
alpine, clouds raced across the sky, and we decided to hike up the nearest hill
and take a look around yet stay not too far from our car in case of some
trouble. And we wanted to have time for the springs.
|
A marmot at Snowy Range. |
|
Snowy Range. |
The township of
Saratoga approached their
hot spring in
a grandiose way. Next to a city swimming pool, they built baths connected to the
springs, accessible 24/7, with showers, toilets and storage cabinets. The baths
are made with concrete, one rather only the size of a large whirlpool, but the
other a regular pool. Alas, now in the midst of summer heat, they turned out to
be useless — water was too hot. Thus we ended up in the shallow North
Platte River downstream from the baths, where cool mountain water mixed the
temperature to a bearable level. Later on we were rather glad of the showers,
not wishing to drive home caked with sand and mud. Both showers and toilets are
very primitive (there's a stainless bowl lacking any seat), but apparently very
easy to maintain — they can be simply hosed off. We concluded that these
springs can be entered on our list of local attractions — and it may be
better to journey there in winter, when water won't seem so hot.
Well and then came that other season of ours:
Frontier Days. About four
days before this famous rodeo, summer heat hit us, yet enhanced by afternoon
thunderstorms. With the rodeo,
Vicky and Holger and their younger son
Nico finally arrived to visit. Nico falls age-wise right between our two
kids, and thus even in that aspect things went smoothly. My only problem with
the visit was in my schedule. I did not want to miss any fun between my work
shifts, and so I tried to participate in their local trips. I kept it up for
less than a week — seeing my roster assigning my Saturday from four to
midnight, I reckoned that a morning hike at
Bent Rock made possible by
dropping me off at work on our way back from Colorado, followed by five to eight
miles walking at work, was not a thing I wanted to do. But I managed to go with
them to my beloved Medicine Bow on my day off. We left Vicky and Holger to their
photography of wildflowers and enjoying Lakes Trail, which winds through
the prettiest and most majestic section of the National Forest, and Tom, Nico
and I stepped lively and hiked up to a saddle under Medicine Bow Peak. By then
thunder could be heard and we all met back at the car, voting NOT TO GO to the
Saratoga hot springs, for splashing in the river when lightning strikes around
is marginally sub-optimal. Instead we had a late lunch in a local pub.
|
Nico & Tom while ascending to Sugarloaf saddle. |
|
Browns Peak from the saddle. |
Further, I took our visitors
kayaking on Crystal Reservoir — there,
it showed, how much we underestimated our preparations — since our last
expedition, water surface dropped dramatically, and a picturesque bay turned
impassable for boats, thus substantially shortening our kayaking route. Still,
visitors took turns paddling and hiking on a trail contouring the reservoir,
and perhaps everybody was satisfied. Later at The Bunkhouse they were, besides
live music and beer, finally able to taste bison burgers — when you travel
to a state that sports bison on its flag, you should sample this delicacy.
Bison meat is less fatty and more filling that plain beef — I like it very
much, but skipped this time, for I had a feeling I could not finish it (perhaps
because I had not paddled at all and only walked along the shore).
On my working days, Sid took the visitors to
Bent Rock in Colorado and
Box Canyon at Vedauwoo. On one day, I simply dropped our friends off in
downtown, in the midst of Frontier Days, where they could check out local
attractions related to the rodeo — including a museum and an Indian
village. For their half-time, we had planned a three-day trip to Karel's place
in the Rockies. But people wish and the government decides for them. Or rather,
decides against them. To enter the
Rocky Mountain National Park, a mere
mortal is required — besides paying entrance fee — to obtain an
entrance permit, which is issued for each day only to a limited number of
mortals. Permits must be obtained one month in advance — including
a commitment, into WHICH part of the park and WHEN one shall enter. And then one
can be out of luck, when on that particular day weather turns bad — or one
gets re-assigned a work shift (me), or you find yourself in an exit process out
of your current job and must hand everything over (Sid). Thus our plan that we
would just take our minivan to the Rockies and enjoy the park all together,
using a single permit, suddenly fizzled out.
|
Crow Creek feeds the Crystal Reservoir here. |
|
Holger & Nico. |
On Monday we handed our minivan over to our visitors and I followed in my own
car, to help with their accommodations and setting-up Karel's apartment, knowing
that I must return in the evening to be back at work on Tuesday. I thought I
could return to Colorado on Wednesday, but this time the weather interfered.
Hiking in the rain got canceled and Vicky with her family decided to drive
through the park main route westward, with short stops as weather permitted
and viewpoints occurred — passing through the Rockies on the way back to
us through northern passes over the beautiful Medicine Bow. Then it made no
sense at all, taking a second car to Colorado (without a permit to drive through
the park) and later going back somehow to fetch it.
All this had a good side. We managed to organize a little
celebration of
Lisa's birthday at home. On the very day when she turned eighteen, on
Saturday the 29th, I was assigned an unexpected evening shift (I tend to get
noon shift on Saturdays) — and thus I had to make do with everybody
dropping by at work; they got dinner and dessert. I even managed to speak with
them for a few minutes, but Saturday night in a restaurant is rather busy.
Lisa's main birthday present was a school laptop. It was no surprise, but she
will need a decent computer at the university. Further, she got some jewelry
and decorations — and a women's wristwatch.
Now I have got a problem — since all four of us at home are adults, how
do I describe my offspring? Children? Sure, they will always be my kids, but the
word conjures the image of small cute creatures. Ought I perhaps try Karel's
label,
omnivores?
|
Vicky & Holger on the "Cliffhanger" trail. |
|
Toward the Chameleon and Hidden Falls. |
Kids / offspring / omnivores also took over their
college apartment at
the start of August, which brought additional worries and expenses. The flat is
furnished, in the sense that it came with beds and a sofa and a dining table;
the kitchen has basic cabinets, stove with an oven and a refrigerator with
a freezer; still we had to purchase many things. From bed sheets (beds being yet
another size compared to those at home) and towels, through a dish drying rack
and a vacuum cleaner, to things like bedside lamps and office desks and chairs.
Every time one arrives there with one load, a discovery is made that look here,
you need a door mat and a tablecloth and silverware — evermore something.
On the other hand, if it goes wall, Tom and Lisa could stay in this apartment
till they're done studying at this school — which makes it a real second
long-term household.
At the beginning of August, our visitors came back for two more days; we managed
to get out with them to
Hidden Falls here in our closes state park.
We had planned it carefully — arriving at the waterfall by noon and
practically alone, for all other tourists either went to have lunch (we met some
summer camp group that was just leaving), or they came to splash in the water
after lunch (again, we passed some large groups). When we were getting back to
the car, thunder rolled; on our way to the the pub we passed through a storm.
But at the pub it was just dripping, we nicely hid from the next downpour inside
with a beer. Perhaps we should charge some extra fee for professional native
guide services and weather control.
Overall, with the end of Frontier Days, weather turned to the worse. It got
cooler and we began regarding storms with pea-sized hail as mild weather.
We pulled our jackets and sweat-shirts out of our wardrobes again. As our
visitors left, a completely autumn mood fell on me — "summer
break" was ending and winter awaits us again. I decided that it was high
time to check out Medicine Bow Peak — by this time last year's snow HAD
practically melted away, and this year's snow STILL has not come.
|
The trail is called "Pinball". |
|
Hidden Falls. |
I talked Sid and Tom to participate after I assured that they would not have to
hike with me all the way to the Peak. Once a day off work coincided with a
mountain forecast of "mostly sunny", we packed our wind-breakers and
set out. When we got closer to Snowy Range, clouds started gathering over the
peaks, but the very rocky cliff still basked in sunlight as we were parking.
A hailstorm caught us some two hundred yards from the car, so we ran back
to seek shelter under the metal roof of our trusty bus. The storm abated after
a while, and it was again "mostly sunny"; thus we tried a second
time.
In a saddle, where the trail from Lewis Lake (along which we came) meets with
our favorite Lakes Trail, leading from the other side and Mirror Lake, the third
path leads up — to Medicine Bow Peak. We took time to eat our snacks and
ponder, what to do. Meanwhile a group of young Greenies (hipsters from Colorado)
went up and ahead, and both Tom and Sid eventually decided to accompany me going
uphill. We were clear that descent would be much harder on our arthritic joints
than the ascent — we only had no idea how much harder.
When we reached the sight of a post sticking up into the sky and conjuring
a deceptive impression of a summit, it got overcast again and a drizzle started.
Greenies cantered downhill alarmed by the approaching storm, claiming they
practically reached the top, and that the trail goes "horizontal" past
the post. I voted to get up to the post and return. Sid claimed that this was
not the top and we should keep on going on. Before we finished scrambling up to
the post, it became obvious that the storm would pass us at tome distance
— and a spot of blue sky appeared over the cliff. So we took pictures of
the storm advancing through the Lookout Lake valley — and moved on.
We found ourselves again in a beautiful sunny day, the trail actually turned
more horizontal, tracking along the cliff-side with awesome views.
|
Bent Rock. |
|
A dragonfly at the Bent Rock. |
Medicine Bow Peak is 12,018 feet tall; I had thought that we were
sufficiently acclimatized, since we live at six thousand feet and during our
last trip with our visitors we got up to eleven thousand feet elevation. Yet,
under the top my had started spinning so much, I had to sit down for a while.
A small note — next time on a hike like that, I should really not forget
to take ventolin along. We did not waste time during our stop though — we
watched a marmot basking on a rock high above the valley. It was not at all
disturbed by our presence, got joined by a buddy (a youngling, perhaps?) after
a while, and then a third marmot started getting near to them. We waited to see
what would happen, but the marmots ignored each other. We still had a few last
yards elevation to the actual peak.
The trail crested the cliff edge and here came the most difficult stretch of
the ascent — the top consists of huge sharp-edge boulders, and one must
jump from one to the next, skipping over huge gaps promising to break one's leg
or worse. Some of it was covered by a relatively solid snow cover, and we hiked
a length on top of it — it was slippery, but even so it seemed safer.
The very last stretch consisted of naked rocks; still we somehow rattled through
(the rocks actually rattle and ring and reverberate).
We ate some more snacks on the top, but it was quite windy there — and
more clouds started gathering on the horizon. We reckoned it was time to leave
the tallest lightning rod in wide vicinity behind, and move to lower elevations.
There we discovered how old our knee joints have become — this time not
mine, but Sid's. Thus we shuffled downhill slowly, much slower than we should
have. The storm caught us about in the middle of the slope. And since we found
ourselves so high, it consisted mostly from a very moist snow and hail kernels.
I'm glad we were all equipped with hats; being hit with a hail piece in your
face is nothing pleasant. Tom and I tried to hid from the stinging downpour
behind a rock, but it made no difference. Problem with Sid's knees got company
in the shape of wet stones and slippery hail on the ground.
|
Snowy Range: ascent to Medicine Bow Peak. |
|
When you find yourself in a hailstorm on a mountain, a rainbow forms over the valley. |
I managed to convince our Legolas Tom only down at the saddle to hurry ahead to
the car — by then we were all soaked and freezing to the bone, despite the
rain having stopped long ago and a beautiful double rainbow having formed over
the valley — but we did not want to leave the stumbling Sid along uphill.
The whole hike is supposed to take under three hours; with snack breaks, taking
pictures, hiding from hail, and careful descent, we almost doubled the time.
Should you be interested in some numbers, the hike is 3.4 miles long,
consisting of 1,272 feet of elevation gain (and loss).
If you're curious about my very subjective conclusion — this was perhaps
the most beautiful place that I know. We hiked there along many routes, but
the views from the Medicine Bow Peak proper have no equals.
On the Thursday after the ascent, our whole family journeyed to Laramie, to
finished moving the kids and finalize their flat. On following Sunday, Tom had
moved there for good, as he started his training next Monday. He had signed up
to work as a counselor for the freshman Saddle-Up week, which commenced on
the following Friday with new students moving into their dormitories —
freshman Lisa followed him on Thursday of the same week. Thus actually ended
summer break for our students — which allows me to declare Medicine Bow
Peak as the highpoint of this year's summer, and a very adequate conclusion of
our break.